Climbing
[UPDATED: 01:50 a.m. PST, June 5, 2025]
The body of a deceased ski mountaineer was recovered on the morning of Wednesday, June 4. Alex Chiu, aged 41 of Seattle, Washington, died as a result of a 3,000-foot fall from the Denali (Mount McKinley) West Buttress climbing route onto the Peters Glacier. After recovery, rangers returned to Denali National Park and Preserve headquarters, where his body was transferred to the state medical examiner.
On Monday, June 2, the other two members of Chiu’s expedition reported that the unroped ski mountaineer fell at a location known as Squirrel Point towards the Peters Glacier, an exposed, rocky, and serac-covered 3000-foot face.
After witnessing the fall, the reporting party lowered over the edge as far as possible but was unable to see or hear Chiu. They then descended the West Buttress route for additional help before proceeding to Camp 1.
Due to high winds and snow, the ground and air search were unable to access the accident site until the early morning hours of June 4. Clear weather on the north side of the Alaska Range provided the opportunity for two mountaineering rangers to depart Talkeetna for an aerial helicopter search to locate and recover the body.
In 2010, an unroped French mountaineer fell to his death near this exact location towards the Peters Glacier. His body was never recovered.
There are currently 500 climbers on the mountain. The climbing season typically begins in early May and ends in early July.
[Original article posted 02:30 a.m. PST on June 4, 2025]
Search and rescue teams are racing against time and weather on Denali after a ski mountaineer fell from the West Buttress on Monday, June 2. The incident occurred at Squirrel Point, a notorious section above the Peters Glacier, where the 41-year-old man reportedly slipped and tumbled down a 3,000-foot face.
The mountaineer, who was not roped to his partners, vanished from sight as his two teammates watched in shock. They attempted to descend the edge as far as safety allowed, calling out for their companion, but received no response. Unable to locate him, the pair made their way down the West Buttress route and reached Camp 1, where Denali National Park rangers provided care and support.
Search operations began immediately, but efforts have been hampered by severe weather. High winds and heavy snowfall have grounded helicopters, forcing ground teams to pause their search. Officials say aerial and ground searches will resume as soon as conditions improve. In the meantime, rangers are gathering information and preparing for a rapid response once the weather window opens.
The West Buttress, Denali’s most traveled route, is renowned for its challenging terrain and volatile weather. The section near Squirrel Point is particularly exposed, with steep drop-offs and unpredictable snow conditions.
Authorities urge climbers to remain vigilant and prepared for sudden weather changes, and remind all expedition members to prioritize safety, especially when traversing exposed sections unroped.
- Related: Marco Siffredi: The French Shralpinist Who Disappeared on Everest’s Formidable Hornbein Couloir
The search for the missing mountaineer will continue as soon as weather permits. Denali National Park will provide updates as the situation develops.
Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, is North America’s highest peak at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters) above sea level, located in south-central Alaska. The mountain anchors Denali National Park and Preserve, a vast wilderness spanning over six million acres that is home to diverse wildlife and dramatic glacial landscapes. Renowned for its extreme weather and challenging terrain, Denali is one of the world’s most prominent and isolated mountains, drawing climbers and adventurers from around the globe.
